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		<title>1 on Electric Infrared Heat</title>
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		<description>Recent content in 1 on Electric Infrared Heat</description>
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			<lastBuildDate>Sat, 11 Jul 2026 11:47:25 +0800</lastBuildDate>
		
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				<title>Replacement lamp for Sidel SBO 20 Series 1</title>
				<link>http://ir-electric-heat.com/en/posts/replacement-lamp-for-sidel-sbo-20-series-1/</link>
				<pubDate>Sat, 11 Jul 2026 11:47:25 +0800</pubDate>
				<guid>http://ir-electric-heat.com/en/posts/replacement-lamp-for-sidel-sbo-20-series-1/</guid>
				<description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&#34;http://ir-electric-heat.com/images/297f76f3314f03fc0d26b87f292b3806.png&#34; alt=&#34;Replacement lamp for Sidel SBO 20 Series 1&#34;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1 id=&#34;getting-your-heat-right-on-sbo-20-and-contiform-machines&#34;&gt;Getting Your Heat Right on SBO 20 and Contiform Machines&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you&amp;rsquo;re swapping out OEM lamps in a Sidel SBO 20 Series 1 or a Krones Contiform, it usually comes down to one thing: how do I get the heat I need without blowing my budget?&#xA;We built our replacement lamps to be simple drop-ins. They match the original &lt;a href=&#34;https://o-yate.com&#34;&gt;wattage&lt;/a&gt; and voltage, so you don&amp;rsquo;t have to spend your whole afternoon tweaking your &lt;a href=&#34;https://o-yate.net&#34;&gt;heating&lt;/a&gt; profiles just because you changed a bulb.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;The nitty-gritty on power&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;These lamps have to hit a very specific temperature to get that PET plastic just right. When you go with a high-wattage tube, you&amp;rsquo;re dealing with a lot of heat moving very fast. We&amp;rsquo;ve designed these to handle the constant, rapid cycling that happens in high-speed blowing.&#xA;One quick tip if you&amp;rsquo;re using a Krones system: keep an eye on your power supplies. If your voltage is jumping around, it&amp;rsquo;ll eat through your filaments way too fast.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Glass, plugs, and the &amp;ldquo;hot spot&amp;rdquo; &lt;a href=&#34;https://henruite.com&#34;&gt;problem&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;We use high-purity quartz glass. Why? Because it doesn&amp;rsquo;t cloud up or crack when things get hot.&#xA;Most of these use R7s or Sk15 connectors. Now, these aren&amp;rsquo;t just about fitting into the slot. You want a tight, low-resistance connection. If the fit is loose, you get a hot spot. And a hot spot can actually melt your housing. Not great.&#xA;We also use a halogen cycle. It stops the tungsten filament from evaporating and sticking to the inside of the glass, which means your light stays bright and consistent for thousands of hours.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Real-world tips for the floor&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Installing these is the easy part. The part people forget is the cooling.&#xA;High-density lamps put a lot of pressure on your oven&amp;rsquo;s ventilation. If your cooling blowers are clogged with dust or just aren&amp;rsquo;t cutting it, the oven gets too hot. That&amp;rsquo;s how you end up with &amp;ldquo;over-blown&amp;rdquo; bottles or walls that are way too thin in some spots.&#xA;While you&amp;rsquo;re in there swapping the lamps, do yourself a favor and wipe down your reflectors. It makes a huge difference in how the IR heat actually hits the preform.&lt;/p&gt;</description>
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